Monday, June 20, 2005

Back in Boston

Well, it has been almost a week since the end of my journey around the world. Mally is off to lead a group of kids through the wilderness of Hawaii and the Rockies. I am in Boston reuniting with friends and looking forward to spending a bit of time with family in Ohio before making my way to Chicago in the fall.

Sometimes I think back to the roads we have cycled along, wilderness we have hiked through, and cities we have explored in a bit of disbelief. We have been fortunate to experience a full realm of natural beauty and an array of different people and cultures.

Not only have my travels allowed me to experience a part of the vast world around me, but I have had a chance to reflect and think about life a little. I am not quite sure where my thoughts have landed. I do think that there is endless beauty to be found... not just on the lonely roads of New Zealand, the outback of Australia, or the lightly trodden paths of the Swiss Alps, but all around - we just have to look more closely in some places; I think that happiness is not just a state of being, but perhaps more of a state of mind; I realize that there is extreme injustice in the world and although I have done nothing to deserve it, I am fortunate to be one of the luckiest people on earth; and I know that wonderful friends and family are the most important things in life to hold on to... I've got some of the best! It may be a while until I truly take in all my experiences, but thanks for letting me share some of them. I've enjoyed writing all my journies and thoughts down to share and have loved the vast amounts of feedback from family and friends - Thank You.

The End.

Thursday, June 16, 2005


Kristin and Mally with Face Masks in the Blue Lagoon Posted by Hello


Mally in Thermal Activity Area Posted by Hello


Kristin and Mally in Front of Eyjafjallajokull glacier
 Posted by Hello


Black Sands Beach in Vik Posted by Hello


Not a Bad Place to Take a Break from Walking Posted by Hello


Mally and Kristin at Another Good Spot Along Our Iceland Walk (one of many waterfalls!) Posted by Hello


Good Spot Along Our Iceland Walk Posted by Hello


Beginning of Walk from Skogar Posted by Hello


Kristin in Front of Skogarfoss Posted by Hello


Behind the Random Waterfall Posted by Hello


Megan and Kristin in Front of Random Waterfall Posted by Hello


Gullfoss on a Good Day Posted by Hello


Woah - Watch out for Water! (Devon in front of Strokkur) Posted by Hello


Mally in front of Laxifoss Posted by Hello


Uh-Oh! Mally Got Married!! (random guy and megan) Posted by Hello


Hanging Out in Brighton Posted by Hello


Outside of Westminster on a Cold Day  Posted by Hello


A Reunion Run in Greenwich (Margie, Kristin, Devon, Megan, and Cecily) Posted by Hello

Wednesday, June 15, 2005

Iceland Adventures

After a splendid London reunion with my '03 track buddies and a wonderful visit with my cousins, I headed towards home... but first a stop in Iceland with Mally and Kristin, another great friend from college. At first I feared my growing anticipation for returning home would prevent me from fully appreciating our Iceland experience, but in the end the exquisite beauty of the country captivated me as fully as my previous travels.

We arrived in Iceland late in the afternoon on Thursday and stayed in a hostel right next door to a thermally heated pool and spa complex (Perfect!). The next day, we rented a car and set off on the golden circle tour to visit the "must sees" of Iceland. First stop on our cd audio guided car tour: Kerid crater, an extict volcanic crater hole deep in the ground that is filled with a small, crystal clear lake in the bottom. Next stop: Laxifoss. These falls would have been easy to miss were it not for our personal golden circle audio guide and our spotting of Iceland's small unobtrusive road sign. Any other country would have posted road signs and advertisements for miles to see falls like this, but Iceland is so inundated with beautiful waterfalls, that they don't bother highlighting them. Third stop on our high-tech audio tour: Geysir geothermal area. This park contained pools and streams of hot bubbling water and gurgling mudpots. A few of the bubbling water holes were active geisers. Geysir, the largest of its kind in the world, activates very infrequently and did not choose to go off while we were there. However, Strokkur - a 30 m. geysir (third behind Geysir and Old Faithful) goes off every 5-10 minutes. First the water begins to bulge and pulsate up and down until finally a thunderous roar comes from under the ground and huge cascades of water shoot up into the air - Fantastic! Fourth Stop: Gullfoss or "the golden waterfall". The falls are known to be Iceland's best and may have been the most magnificent of the whole trip (although it is hard to compare). These falls included a wide wall of water falling down to yet another magnificent fall at a catty-cornered angle below which then led into a river winding its way through a deeply cut out gorge. To top off the magnificent scene, a perfectly formed rainbow arched over the falls. I could have stayed there all night admiring the beauty of Gullfoss, but we continued on to our final stop of the night: Thingvellir National Park.

The next morning... its hard to say when the night ended and the morning began since the darkness never comes... but the next morning (according to my trusty watch) we loaded up the car and set off for Skogar to begin a day walk . En route, we saw a waterfall along the side of the road and pulled up for a closer view... the waterfall burst off a tall cliff at powerful speeds with great gushes of water. A small path wound its way up a bit of the mountainside, behind the fall, and back down to the other side so we took in the beautiful view from all angles. After seeing the falls and getting a bit of a stretch in, we loaded back in the car and drove the rest of the way to Skogar where another beautiful waterfall - Skogarfoss - awaited our arrival. This fall formed a thick, wide blanket of rushing white water. We began our walk climbing up alongside the fall and continued to follow its source river upstream into the hills of Iceland. The highlights of our walk were grand rock structures of the winding gorge along the way and the assortment of breathtaking waterfalls - there must have been around 20 different falls in our 8km walk up the mountain. The mountain scenery also provided tremendously powerful views. The walk was not a lush, green environment like New Zealand and Australia... it wasn't even a forest landscape like the Alps. It had its own unique landscape of greenish grey moss covered lava rocks. Quite a barren looking environment at first glance, but upon close inspection little wildflowers begin to pop out, trickling streams meander their way to the river, and distant sheep can be seen feeding on the little bit of grassy vegetation that exists - truly magnificent in its own way.

When we reached our first peak, with grey fog moving in and temperatures beginning to fall, we decided to turn around and make our way back to the car along the same rushing river and gushing falls we followed on the way up. Since the day was still young according to the brightly lit sky, we took an excursion to the town of Vik to find some dinner and see its black sands beach which was rated as one of the 10 most beautiful beaches in the world. We grabbed some food at a convenient store (since eating out in Iceland puts quite a dent in the bank account) and ate our dinner in front of the unique ocean view - a shore of black sands with craggy rock formations jutting out of the waters. Then, seeing as how it was still quite light out, we stopped at the Eyjafjallajokull glacier (that's really how it's spelled) for an evening stroll before making our way back to Skogar for the night. This was the fourth glacier I have seen up close on this trip (and the fourth in my lifetime) and definitely my favorite. While being small compared to other glaciers around iceland, its vast expanse was the largest I've seen, but the contrast provided by the white snow and black lava landscape was what made this scene truly spectacular. We finally headed back to Skogar to set up camp in front of the grand Skorgarfoss falls and go to sleep despite the appearance of day and the surrounding noise of young Icelanders partying.

The next morning we headed back towards Reykjavik for an afternoon in the Blue Lagoon: a natural spa tucked into Iceland's lava rocks and filled with warm blue colored waters. Along our journey, Mally practiced driving stick on an empty road, we stopped at a geothermal area on the side of our route with all sorts of bubbling mud pots, we helped pushed a car out of a rut on the side of the road, and we passed one beautiful Icelandic landscape after the next - we had quite an enjoyable trip. By lunchtime we arrived at the Blue Lagoon where I turned down $25 hamburgers and instead ate a $5 hot dog. Then we soaked in the blue lagoon for hours... wandering around the large pondlike spa to different areas of warm and hot water, making rejuvinating face masks out of the white silica sands, and sitting back and relaxing in a little cave-like fort. It would be great to have a place like this in my back yard!

That marked the end of our Icelandic tour. We spent the evening wandering around Reykjavik and catching up on lost time and then prepared our gear to leave on our journey home the next day. The thought of going home seemed unreal - could our trip finally come to an end? Yet, I bursted with excitement at the idea of reuniting with friends and family.

Wednesday, June 08, 2005

A London Reunion

We finished a splendid stay in Switzerland with a visit to Chateau de Chillon (a grand castle from the 13th century), a last run through the alps, and a scrumptious farewell dinner with the Welners. After a brief visit in Geneva last Wednesday, we headed back to London for a late arrival (made even later by hours of waiting in customs... apparently they don't have many stampers at Luton airport).

Back in London, I got to spend more time with my cousins; reunite with an Oxford friend, Simon, who coached my college football team while I was there; and have a reunion with some of my best running friends from Dartmouth - Cecily, Kristin, Margie, and Megan (Jessie - we miss you!)! (Needless to say, I haven't had much time for blogging).

I've been to London and seen most of the sights here before, but that didn't stop us from visitnig many of the tourist sites around town... like Westminster Abbey, Parliament, the Changing of the Guard, Big Ben, etc., etc. We even went to the beach town of Brighton for a day and took a trip to Greenwich to see the Greenwich mean time line.

But I'd have to say that my favorite times in London have been just spending an evening at home with my cousins, running in a park with my college buddies, and just hanging out with close friends. After months of travelling, you begin to desensitize a little to wonderful sites and start to thoroughly appreciate a good conversation with a close friend and a relaxed evening at home.

Monday, May 30, 2005

Tour des Dents du Midi

After spending a day with Megan's family - playing with the kids, relaxing with a book, and babysitting the crew so Linda and Pierre could have a night on their own - we were ready to make our way back in the Alps.

We woke up early yesterday and set off on a two hour hike to Salanfe to join the Tour des Dents du Midi... a trail among some of the area's spectacular mountain scenery. Along the way, we passed the enormous waterfall that we visited on our first day here; we stopped at a small hut to get some lunch sandwiches; and we made our way up a rocky valley where we met quite a few mountain goats (too bad I didn't have any batteries in my camera :(). The journey to Salanfe was mostly uphill and quite sunny... by the time we arrived to the "town", all of us were ready for a break. Situated on Lake Salanfe, the town is more like a few lonely buildings than a town... it consists of a couple small huts, a "cabane" for through-hikers to stay overnight, and a lovely little church. We took off our packs, sat on the edge of the lake, and munched on our delicious (or amazing according to Cecily) sandwiches while taking in the scenery. Beyond the cool, blue lake, snow-capped mountains encircled us to our left and grassy slopes filled our views to the right. In the midst of our munching, we heard a loud, distant roar and looked up to see an enormous avalanche rip it's way down the snowy peaks (good thing we weren't going that way!!).

After a bit of a break, we continued onwards up the grassy slopes to the "Col du Jorat" at 2210 m. above sea level. Upon reaching the peak, we encountered a snow covered face on the other side (oh dear...). We began to descend through a bit of snow, thinking if we just get to that rocky bit the snow will end. Megan zoomed through the wet snow while Cecily and I took one careful step after another making sure not to zoom down the slippery mountain face on our butts into the valley far below. As soon as we got to a rocky safehaven we discovered that our hopes for the snowy slopes to end were not fulfilled... endless slippery slopes seemed to lay in our path. Cecily and I continued to creep along at a snail's pace with our heals dug into the mountain and our hands frozen in the snow to support oursleves as Mally went full speed ahead! We managed to get through the steep sections without falling on our bums too many times... and soon the slopes became more gradual so that we could walk through the snow without feeling like gravity wanted us to come quickly down the mountain... at this point, hiking through the snow became quite enjoyable. Megan perfected the run/shoe-ski technique while Cecily and I marched behind her through the snowey fluff... soon we were hoping the snow would never end. But, at last, we reached the rocky terrain below. Upon looking back up the slope, we wondered how we made it down this steep, snowy terrain... it sure didn't look passable from the bottom!

We continued down the rocky path towards the next town of Mex. Along the way, we encountered another furry Marmot, a couple rushing waterfalls, and splendind mountain scenery highlighted with bright sun and surrounded by clear skies. Upon reaching Mex, we filled up our water bottles and stopped in a cafe to refuel with rubarb tart and (of course) ice cream. We then followed the signs towards Chindonne, our final destination of the day.

The journey to Chindonne led us along dirt paths zigzagging through green forests; onto rocky mountainside trails guiding us under sprinkling waterfalls and across rushing streams; and into green meadows filled with wildflowers and views of rocky, snow-covered mountain sides striped with rivers and waterfalls. I wish we had a camera to capture some of these views, but much of our surroundings left such an impression that my memory with be stamped with these sights for years to come.

Upon arriving to Chindonne, our bodies were exhausted and our feet couldn't wait to get out of our hiking boots. Only a "Cabane" stood at Chindonne - a rather new looking log cabin situated on the side of the mountain with horses in the nearby pasture and views overlooking small towns in the valley below and rocky peaks out in the distance. We asked for a room in the little bit of french we could remember and discovered that our hosts had an English speaking son to make life a bit easy on us (He also spoke German, French, and Italian... he and Cecily chatted away in Italiano). We took our bags up to our bunks (which we had all to ourselves... in fact, we were the only guests that night), changed into some warm clothes, and headed downstairs for some food. We all shared a few local recommendations for dinner... which featured large quantities of different cheeses (delicious, but very filling.. ugh). After relieving our hunger, I quickly made my way to bed while Cecily and Megan enjoyed a bit of reading out in the mountain air.

The next morning, we awoke early to grey ominous skies. We dressed for the day, packed our bags, and headed downstairs where breakfast was laid out in a beautiful spread awaiting our arrival. After eating and saying "Au revoir" to our hosts we joined the trails and headed upwards again into the mountains. At first we enjoyed the cool change of weather with grey skies highlighting the grandeur of surrounding rocky peaks. We forged our way across gushing rivers, around the last remaining wisps of snow, and along grass-covered meadows. We talked about life goals, tried to learn some Italian from Cecily, and reminisced upon old times... another enjoyable start to a day of walking.

Unfortunately, the rain began to come down and the winds started chilling us to the bones... we took a wrong turn that started leading us downhill a bit early, but instead of backtracking back up the mountain, we continued on to the town below where we would meet a train to take us back to warmth a little sooner. On our way down, we sang songs... Mally broke out a bit of the Beatles, Cecily and I came up with a few Wizard of Oz tunes, and then we all tried remembering our Disney favorites. Soon the rain stopped, the mountain winds eased, and we grew warmer and warmer on the descent.

We soon reached Val D'Illez - enlivened by the refreshing scenery of our journey, relieved to be off our feet, and happy to be headed back to the cozy home of Megan's welcoming family.

Saturday, May 28, 2005


Mally, Linda, Cecily, and Zoe on the way to Trient Glacier. Posted by Hello


A Marmot in the Alps Posted by Hello


Fenestral! Posted by Hello


Emanay! Posted by Hello


Crossing Snow in the Alps! Posted by Hello


Cecily and Mally Beginning our Hike to Emanay Posted by Hello


Lunch with our English Neighbors (Dave and Steve) Posted by Hello